Chicken Busses and Backpacks...77 days in Costa Rica,Nicaragua and Panama

IF YOU ENLARGE THIS MAP YOU'LL SEE WHAT WE'VE COVERED IN THE LAST THREE MONTHS

Costa Rica days 74/77 Mar. 20/25

A busy few days. Jim, Don and I went fishing on Sat. Jim has a beautiful 26' boat and his helpers, Francisco, and his young son Byron came ashore in the tender and picked us up in Carillo. We'd been unable to get any ice as Easter w/end around there is crazy. The beaches and campgrounds are packed. Francisco and Byron got us hooked up and the lines out and we headed North out of Playa Carillo.
About 20 minutes later Don got a Mahi. I've never seen one before and it was a gorgeous color. Fransico filleted it but unfortunately although we saw tuna jumping everywhere they weren't biting and we got skunked. Jim figured there was so much live bait fish in the area they didn't need to be biting on stainless steel. We did see a manta ray which surfaced a few times just off our starboard side. The waves picked up after a few hours. We were out from 11:30 until around 5 p.m. Coming in Jim was running about 1/3 throttle and that baby can move! He's got two 140 h.p. Johnsons on it.
After we got home it was into the pool for a quick one and then we sat down to an excellent supper of homemade pizza and cevise (sp) which is a raw fished in lime juice I think. Both were very good and their guests Richard and wife and daughter joined us.
We turned in around 10 p.m. after chasing an armadillo out of the garden who was intent on eating the roses, having already finished off the vegetables.
Sunday afternoon (our last day before leaving) we went down to check out the property below the house where Don and Marion are going to build. Jim had been working on his Cat all day clearing the bush and grass and locating the boundry markers. While there we spotted a howler monkey going up a tree. Imagine seeing wildlife like that right out your window!
Returning to the house Don and Jim were in the pool when I heard "Al, get the binocs and camera"! Jim thought he'd seen the panther again quite close to the house. I managed to get a picture of it and when zoomed in it was a coati. It climbed up a mango tree and took the whole fruit in it's mouth, climbed down and then went back up for another. They have the face of a possum (butt ugly) a body like a racoon and a very long tail with faint rings similar to a coon. When Jim's new fruit trees get bigger they'll be all over the place and other than eating fruit they'll be nice to watch.
That night Don and Marion took us all to a great BBQ place right on the beach. We had a great meal, margarita's, and wine on the huge burl table. The bbq is pretty unique in that the fire is elevated with a chute that the coals come down to cook the food.
Everyone got a little tiddly which lends itself to a fun ride home. (you could be dead drunk and you still wouldn't come close to the way the Tico's drive).
Monday morning came early thanks to some parrots outside the bedroom window. Don and Marion were going to drive us into Samara to catch the bus for the 5 hour drive to the airport in San Jose but the taxi we'd made a previous appointment with and then cancelled showed up promptly at 7:30 so it was a quick goodbye and we were off (including a cooler that had been sitting near our bags out in front).
We were both very appreciative of the hospitality shown us by Jim and his wife Patty and it was great to meet Jo's brother in law Don. I'd met Marion last Spring when she visited for a couple of days. It was a fun three days and far too short but it was exciting to be thinking about getting home and seeing the kids again. That was the one thing we both missed and it's too long a time to be separated from your family and grandchildren.
We had reserved seats on the bus and it left right on time. A very long bus ride which was slowed even more by a bad accident which was on my side of the bus. Some car on a long straightaway was laying upside down beside the road. Shortly after that we came across another wreck on the opposite side of the bus. I'm thinking if you need to go somewhere in Costa Rica pick something big (like our bus) or a monster truck. Maybe even a tank might save your butt.
We arrived at the Santa Maria airport and paid our $26 each so we didn't have to do it the following morning when it would have been busy. We found there was no place to eat until after you'd passed the check in point except for a fried chicken kiosk. We hadn't eaten all day but we needed a meal so we took a courtesy bus to the Casino/Denny's/Hampton Hotel and had a great supper (albeit quite pricey for what we had). Patty had suggested we stay at the Hampton overnight instead of at the airport as they had rooms for $30. Our flight left quite early and we had to get there around 6 a.m. but unless you wanted to doze on a slab of marble with all your bags it was a bad idea. I checked out the Hampton and the other hotel next door and the cheapest room they had (and a smoking room at that) was $182.00! Maybe you got to keep it or became part owner in a time share or something.
As we were leaving we were standing outside waiting for the shuttle to return to the marble slab when some guy asked us if we wanted a lift to the airport. He was wearing airport i.d. so we climbed aboard. After telling him we would have to stay overnight at the airport he told us of a place in nearby Alejuela for $36 a night. Now that's more like it so off we went and he didn't even ask for payment (although we paid him). That's indicative of the great people down there.
Wow it even had pc's for our use! We got a "cozy" room with a balcony right over the Indianapolis speedway! I closed the windows but it seems the only braking source they have are Jake brakes which they use with glee. All the other traffic were motorcycles on their way at high speed to the nearest muffler shop which must stay open 24/7.
We'd set our alarm clock for 5 a.m. but that was just wishful thinking and we gave up and got out of bed early. We got our bags and I headed to the lobby to get someone to call a cab. It was blacker than Toby's ass and as I walked into the darkened reception area a voice said "buenos dias". Scared the hell out of me as an apparition rose up from the couch. Guess this guy works 24/7 as he's the same guy from the day before sleeping there under a blanket. He called a cab which was there in minutes and off we went for the 5 minute ride to Santa Maria.
We checked our bags, cleared customs (that's another story but due to possible jail terms it will have to wait), and picked a place to people watch. All our flights left on time, the longest one being from San Jose to L.A. which was 5 or 6 hours depending on how much you paid for your watch. The flight from L.A. to Seattle was a bulkhead seat which gave us some extra room.
We arrived in Kelowna, cleared customs again (they didn't check our bags) and Paul was waiting for us. He was driving "Rambo" the never say die pickup truck. It got us home by 11:30 p.m. and we hit the sack by midnight. It was a 20 hour day but great to be back.
Paul had put some provisions in the fridge for us and been checking the mail so we were in good shape.
That culminates this blog. It has been a trip of a lifetime. We didn't try to kill each other, saw everything and more than we'd hoped for, met some great people, didn't get robbed and I've got over 6,000 pictures! Jo kept a very comprehensive journal and we've thought about putting it all together in a book format. That remains to be seen as there's lots to do now including getting the boat ready for tourist time.
Many thanks to all of you who followed our adventure. I only wish I'd made a guestbook or put a tracker on the blog to see how many of you there were.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=32022&l=1ff06&id=680056043

Costa Rica day 73 Mar. 21/22

Crossing the river in the taxi to Jim and Patty's house


Yesterday we said our goodbyes to Tone and Jaime and took a cab to Jim and Patty's house. Passing the beach at Carillo it was packed with people who were visiting the beach for the long w/end.
We arrived at the house in Islita and began to unpack. Then we hit the pool with it's refreshing fresh water. Jim and Patty, Don and Marion arrived from San Jose about an hour later. This was the first time I'd met Don and Patty. They'd been working hard in Hawaii for their pubs St. Patricks day celebrations. It was their 2nd best year ever after doing it for 20 years.
Patty made some incredible mango margaritas. We sat in and around the pool and had a few drinks and some tortillas made by the caretakers wife and some nachos and guacamole dip that Patty made.
For supper we had chicken, dried fish and rice and a veggie dish. After supper as it began to get dark we had wine, port, and cigars. The full moon came up to our left and was partially obscured by clouds which dissipated to brighten up the surf and the patio where Patty had lit some torches on the deck. Off in the distance we could see lightning flashing on the horizon behind the clouds. It was a beautiful evening and we turned in around 10 p.m. Shortly before turning in we heard a strange sound coming from beside the house. Jim new immediately what it was and took off at a run. Damn things he said. We all followed to see what it was and it turned out to be an armadillo who'd been eating the roots of the plants and roses.
He escaped and we heard it again as we were going to bed. How do you catch an armadillo? That remains to be seen.
It was very quiet and the only sounds were a few birds and the surf off in the distance. No chickens or dogs barking!
Jim got up with the dawn and headed for the beach to get in a few hours of surfing which we could watch with binoculars from the deck.
After a great breakfast Jo and Marion headed for a walk on the beach. In a few minutes Jim,Don and I are heading into Carillo to take the boat out to catch some yellowfin tuna that will (hopefully) be bbq'd for a small party tonight in the palapa. Looking forward to getting out on the water even if I don't catch a fish.

Costa Rica day 69 Mar. 17

This is a sketch Jo did while laying in the hammock. The iguana came along and sat there with perfect timing. I'd like to make a print of this as it's one of her best and very accurate.
A two hour hike along the beach and through the town and then a 2 hour stint on the beach and some hammock time. Jo crashed in the hammock in the yard and did a beautiful sketch of one of the palms complete with a philadendron and an iguana that happened along. She did a great job and I'm sure we'll be blowing it up into a picture. For supper we went into town to a new place for a cascada with pork. It's a typical Tico dinner and very good. On the way to this restaurant there was a vendor selling hammocks which we've been looking for. The local tourist stores wanted $30 and we got the first two in San Jose for $14. This guy had the kind we want and he wanted $25. I asked him how much for 4 and the price came down to around $20. I told him I had to go to the bank in the morning (we need enough to get home plus rum, cigars etc.) so he said he'd be there by 8. The bank opens at 8:30 and I'll be there as I don't want to have to wait all day to get out of served. This will pretty much wrap up our shopping. We also need to make arrangements for a bus to San Jose on Monday and a bus or taxi to get us to Islita on Friday. Only three days left here in Samara and it will be tough to leave.
We had just sat down at the restaurant when we saw Tone walk by on her way to check the internet. She joined us as we were finishing our supper and then we went to the fruit stand where they have ice cream. We pigged out there and then walked some of the backstreets in the dark and checked out some of the other restaurants as well as bars. Tone treated us to a drink. She ordered a sunshine which came green (St. Patricks day). Next door was another bar and it to was on the beach. They had a guy twirling fire so we watched in anticipation but he didn't set himself on fire. I got a video of it and he did pretty good. It was a great evening as we walked back down the beach (which reminds me I need to put some anti blood sucking, man biting, vampire insect spray on. Just thinking of them makes me itch.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=31235&l=c9572&id=680056043

Costa Rica day 68 Mar. 16

It was breakfast in town this morning at the internet cafe. Earlier in the week we'd been there and heard a cd playing that we enjoyed. This morning we borrowed it while we ate and made a copy. We also picked up a few more blank cd's. After returning home to drop the mac off we went for a walk down some of the backroads to the East of us. Came across a huge brugmansia (trumpet flower) plant. I got some pictures of it with it's hundreds of flowers. Unfortunately it was surrounded by garbage and a junked truck. After that we walked to the West End of the beach again. It was more crowded than yesterday. Being Sunday all the local Ticos were there with their families.
I hit the beach about 10 a.m. again for 2 1/2 hours and then retired to the hammock for another couple. Jo worked on ideas for quilt designs and updated her journal. We're now working on portioning out our food and coffee as we'll be leaving here on Friday morning. Tues. we'll hit the bank one more time. Fridays and Mondays are good days to avoid going there unless you pack a lunch. We need to make up a list of what we yet have to buy so I know how much to get out. I know it's $26 each to leave the country. I wonder what they do if you don't have it? I'll have to ask.
No monkeys at the Monkey Mansion today although we heard them early this morning and again around 5 p.m. just as the cicada's were warming up for their symphony. It's 10 to 8 now and getting close to time to crash. Jo's already there.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=31233&l=a92e3&id=680056043

Costa Rica day 67 Mar. 15

COSTA RICA AS SEEN BY AL
Went into town about 8:30 to get stamps but they're closed until Monday. We'd been awakened by two huge blasts which we've heard several times since and in volleys of two. Probably some kind of fireworks as they like to make sure people are up and about. We then picked up a couple of cd's so I can burn an album for Jim our landlord. When we got back I took care of the cd which he really appreciated and played it off and on all day. I hit the beach at 10 a.m. for 2 1/2 hours and got nicely toasted and then retired to the hammock where I listened to one of my audio books. Jo spent some hammock time down by the beach and got caught up on some sewing and journalism.
Tone invited Jim, Jo and I for supper in the yard for 6 p.m. which is just after dark. She made lentil soup, with blue cheese, and fresh bread backed up by a bottle of Chilean Red. Jo brought a plateful of cut up fruit, and I took a bottle of rum and some coke. We even had a white table cloth (part of Jo's sewing stuff) and a candle. About 8:30 we called it a wrap just as it began to shower. The power had gone off while we were eating but it was quite nice as there was a bonfire on the beach next door where they were burning all the leaves and palm branches they'd raked up during the day making the place ready for the owners over Easter.
This is the third sign of rain since we've been here and it only lasted for about 20 minutes. It was nice to sit out on our balcony under the wide roof and listen to it bouncing off the tin roofs. (Every roof down here is corrugated tin).
We turned in around 9 which is late for Jo, and I began to pay the price for not spraying my feet with Deet. The no see ums but sure feel ums had been eating me while I was enjoying supper. I finally dozed off after several hours of an extreme itch. Fortunately the itch disappears by morning.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=30904&l=b4f97&id=680056043

Costa Rica day 66 Mar. 14

Same old, same old.. Roosters at 5 a.m. closely followed by grandpa howler who sounded like he was in the bedroom with us. The noise of the surf outside was also accompanied by the cicadas or whatever it is that lives in the trees and sounds like a turbine screaming. I got up (sleep was impossible by now) and filmed the morning symphony so I have the sound track for future use. It's daylight now at 6 a.m. and I've been typing out on the balcony. The dawn begins to appear at 5:30. It's amazing how the howlers know when it's exactly 5 a.m.
Last night I was plagued by no see ums who managed to each take a chunk out of me. I think I wore down my fingernails scratching. Tonight they'll go hungry as I'll paint myself with poison and see who dies first, me or the bloody bugs.
The local squirrels are out in the trees over our heads doing their acrobatics. These squirrels are bigger than ours and are a rusty color on their backs with huge bushy tails. They seem to take delight in cheating death while jumping onto branches that shouldn't be able to hold them. They also enjoy eating the almonds and then throwing the nuts down onto the tin roofs. Well it's time for a breakfast of granola and yogurt. The monkeys have shut up and now they're probably on the move to find a place to rest for the day being as they've managed to wake up the whole world. It's amazing how noiselessly they move through the trees once they've finished howling. You could walk right under them and never know they're there (until they pee on you).
After breakfast we walked down the beach to town and then through town and down some of the backstreets rounding the West end of the beach and then headed East back towards the beach where we were yesterday. The tide was much higher this time. Met a lady from Victoria and chatted with her for a while and then walked the beach back to Samara. We checked out some of the souvenir shops and then went to the fruit stand on the way back. Picked up some fruit (pineapple, limes, coconut and guacamole) and as we were leaving the kid there was squeezing oranges into juice. Now that's real orange juice not the stuff they sell down here which tastes more like orange pop. We each had a large cup of that and I think next time we'll buy it from him as it's the real thing. I also noticed they had ice cream! That's now on my list.
We haven't had a coconut since we've been here and they're laying all over the place. I borrowed a rusty machete but ended up cracking it open on a rock. Jo drank the juice and then I began prying out the meat. mmmm it was great. Next time I'll use the machete and open some from the ground.
Jo just read in a book that the tides lately have been between 6 and 8'. That's a lot of water and the beach is so flat that it represents a few hundred feet! She also read that no alcohol is sold from Mar. 20 to Mar. 22nd (Easter?) Now that's important! We've been planning what we'll need to bring back home so we'll need to stock up before we leave here next friday morning. We also need to pick up some souvenirs which needs to be done before then.
For supper we walked down the beach to Shake Joe's and had a burger and a beer while I contacted a few of you via skype. Fun talking to the kids especially Isabella and Diego when we can actually see each other.
Before leaving Shakes we put on some bug repellant as the sand fleas really attack with a vengeance after dark. Seems to have worked as I'm not scratching tonight.
Behind us and below our bedroom window are a family of Ticos (locals). They get up at dawn and the little guy gets picked up by a van to go to school at 6 a.m. In the afternoon it's siesta time and then they eat supper around 8 p.m. The lady has an outdoor kitchen and does her laundry and washes the dishes outside. Not sure how many live there but there seems to be quite a gang of them from Mom and Dad (grandparents?) to daughter and a couple of young ones. She has a beautiful garden of flowers and a variety of palms. They also have a young dog which the little girl looks after. We've also noticed a lack of cats around here. That's no loss for me. Most of the dogs have owners which is something you don't see in San Jose where dogs live off the streets. There are some resident chickens which I guess you'd call "free range' if you can call garbage free range. Garbage pickup here is pretty random. We put our edible scraps in a container only accessible by chickens and birds. Everything else is put into plastic bags (including toilet paper) and they pick it up when they get to it. Today was the day and just in the nick of time as it was starting to pile up.
For any of you who have a computer and haven't already done so download skype. It's free and you can call anywhere in the world for .02 a minute and if you call another computer it's free and if you have a video camera you can see each other. Best thing we've done and I highly recommend it.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=30899&l=9d2bb&id=680056043