We got an early start after breakfast at del Sol. The cab picked us up at 7:30 and dropped us off 5 minutes later at the bus station in Coco Beach. We found out our bus wouldn't get here until around 9:45. It was a pretty decent bus and took us to Filadephia an hour away. We then waited for 2 hours to catch the bus to Playa Grande. We had a very small room there for $65 a night. After checking in with Carlos we headed to the beach to sign up for the turtle tour for the following night (Fri.) when our friend Soleiha was going to join us. The informed us they were booked solid for the whole w/end and try as we might we couldn't reach her to tell her. We did sign up for that nights tour as there was only 4 spots left. They cap the number at 60 and charge $20 each. We were told to show up at 6 pm. They took our passport numbers and names when we first signed up and then when we came back at 6 they gave us small wooden fobs with our numbers 57 and 58 on them. This turned out to be significant as they then took us into an auditorium where we were given a slide show and video on the leatherbacks. The numbers are pretty depressing for their future. We then went outside to wait while the biologists were watching the beach in the dark looking for turtles. At 5 to 8 via walkie talkie we were informed they'd found one. Great! They then take the numbers 1-30 and take their money as they're now assured of seeing a turtle. Off they go while we wait on the concrete I'm asking why we didn't get to go in our group and I'm told they're looking for another turtle. The first group got back at 9 pm having seen the turtle digging, laying her eggs and covering them up. We would have stayed till the cows came home but fortunately our call came at 10:30. A lot of people had left so others who had come later got to fill their spots.
The latest turtle was quite a ways off so we went by van & then walked through a breach in the trees leading to the beach. There are several rules from here on in. No cameras. If your caught taking a picture they take away your camera to be claimed in the morning. Remain quiet, no cell phones, videos, anything that might disrupt the turtle. The guides use red flashlights and you must stay behind them. Any cars in town are supposed to use parking lights only as the light will cause the turtle to abort the trip ashore. It's the lights of the houses on shore that have destroyed much of the nesting sites.
Approaching the leatherback several hundred feet down the beach we are divided into two groups of 15. We're in group 1 and watch her digging while group two stand off. The biologist aids in packing the hole and scooping the sand away from it because if it caves in on itself the turtle will abort the dig. They pack all around the edge of the hole while she digs with her rear flippers which are about a foot across. First she buried her right rear foot and twisted it around to loosen up the sand. She then flips the loose sand out with first her right flipper and then her left until her flipper won't reach any further down which is about 3' deep. Next she begins letting the eggs out. A few at a time. During this time the biologist is laying on her stomach with a red light headband on and a counter. She's also put into the bottom of the nest a temp guage so they can monitor the temp of the nest over the next 65 days. The temp is critical in determining the sex of the turtle. The eggs are slightly smaller than a tennis ball, soft shelled and completely round. When she was nearly depleted the eggs became much smaller until they were about the size of a ping pong ball. This turtle layed 91 eggs. The norm is around 55. These covered the rest of the good eggs. When she was finished she began refilling the nest with sand and tamping it down using all her weight. This turtle was over 5 feet long at the shell which isn't really a shell but leather. She weighed between 700 and 800 lbs! It was an awe inspiring site and well worth the 4 hour wait, the sore butt, and the $20.
While we waited to go, there was a tent set up at the park headquarters and several elderly lady volunteers built a fire and had rice, & food available to eat along with coffee and cold drinks. The price was quite reasonable and we shared a dish prior to leaving.
This was another great day and so far everything is better than we could have asked for. The food is good. The water is great, the people are the friendliest you could ever meet and go out of their way to help you. Language hasn't been a problem as there's always someone who can assist you. Our nights have cost about $60/night and have been pretty good. The price per night will continue to fall after we leave here as we'll be off the beaten path and are expecting to be paying about $15-$20 a night for the two of us.The beds are comfortable, there's toilet paper (although we've brought our own), and our stomaches have remained on an even keel. We are truly happy campers and looking forward to the next 10 weeks. If the money holds out I'm sure we'll make it.
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