Costa Rica day 46 Feb. 23

Slept in this morning until 7:30. Jo had a good night so the antihistamine did it's job. We had breakfast at a waffle house. 3 egg omelette with ham and cheese for me so I can get the cholesteral back up. Jo had a huge waffle and managed to eat it all. We joined our neighbours from Quebec and after that they were going to Masaya to the market so we joined in. It was about a half hour bus trip and then we walked for a mile or so. We came to an old fort which had a craft market so we spent some time in there. Lots of neat stuff and they will haggle with you but we didn't buy anything (most of it is too heavy to carry). We then walked another half an hour to the real market. Gag a rat! It was all enclosed so no breeze. A million shoe stores, & stifling hot. Then came the good part. The fish (fresh?) . Geez even the flies were staying away. It had to be 95 degrees in there and these fish were about to be cremated! We got out of there pretty damn quick. We then backtracked to where we caught the bus. Neat bus. Two seats on one side & one on the other and when they were full they folded down a 4 seat to fill up the aisle. The person at the back invariably needed to get off first so everyone on the aisle seats had to find a place to crawl while they folded up the seats and made for the door. The drivers helper stood in the open door as we sped along hollering to pedestrians that there was still room for one more. When we passed a bus he'd lean out and wave at the other bus driver and at one point he nearly had his head taken off by the other busses rear view mirror! He didn't see it coming because he was looking back. I figured what was coming and started to get my camera out but he spoiled my day. This would have been a picture for the Enquirer too!
We got off the bus early and walked to the bus ticket office and got two tickets back to San Jose for Tues. morning. We'll spend a night there and then jump a bus for David in Panama and spend some time there. There's lots of history here in Granada but how much history can one person take. I've got enough trouble remembering the '50s let alone going back to the 1500's. This place is full of churches but most of them are pretty run down. Jo went up to the bell tower in one of them and got some good shots. Too damn high for me. That was a sure nosebleed.
I did get a good shot of a horse pulling a cart with a refrigerator on it. The fridge weighed more than the horse! Also some good shots of ladies carrying loads of fruit on there heads in a high wind. No action there either.
We picked up a dozen beer on the way back and made a good dent in those before going across the street for supper. I had a footlong hot dog that probably was what it was. Jo was more conservative and had a BLT. Jo just read this and steamed her glasses up. Something to do with my poetic license I think . We came back here for another beer and I ran a slide show for our neighbours of the wildlife (animals) that I've taken pictures of.
Tomorrow maybe we can find an internet. I say that every day but something always comes up which is a good thing as I'm getting an education which is a helluva lot more than I got when I was younger. (Teachers always misunderstood me). Well I'm all typed out so that's a wrap.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29207&l=442bd&id=680056043

Al Cotton

Costa Rica day 45 Feb. 22

We slept pretty good last night although Jo is still suffering from severe head cold. We went for an early morning walk to the waterfront down the street but there wasn't much to see. It was getting quite hot by the time we returned to the hotel to see if we could see the room we wanted but the people hadn't moved out so we went for another walk towards the market where we bought some fruit and something for Jo's cold. Sinutab down here cost about .20 each! She couldn't get any at this drugstore so they gave her an antihistamine which really seemed to do the job.
The market was something to see. People everywhere and selling everything imaginable. They take their goods to the market by horse drawn carts and then the poor horses have to spend the day standing by the curb in the sweltering heat. We stopped for a smoothie I think its called. Banana, strawberry, and orange juice with a bunch of ice and then blended. It was excellent. We'll have to make some of them when we get home.
Our new room on the second floor is quite small w/ no a/c but it has a fan and a private bathroom and it's only $13 a night. It's much cooler up here as it catches the breezes. It's also quieter as we're not so close to the street or the main lobby.
We met an older couple from Quebec who spend most of their time here and in Costa Rica. He advised us of things to see, places to go and where to eat. They joined us for supper and a few beer. He also gave us the name of a place in Panama called David which he says is really nice and about a six hour bus ride from San Jose which costs about $15 so that could be our next target although we have to get back to San Jose and spend a night there in order to catch the bus which leaves at 7:30 a.m.
I found a wireless internet this morning and it was working fine but all of a sudden it just lost the signal and I couldn't get it back. I'll try again tomorrow. It was very hot this afternoon so we sat around and drank beer until it was time for supper. There's a lot of disrepair around here but there's also a lot of improvements going on at least on the street right out in front and continuing to the waterfront.
All the store fronts are very low key. They are right on the sidewalk but no windows only a door that opens. You have to look in to see what they sell. Most have a courtyard inside where you can sit and have a drink or something to eat. The restaurants all have tables and chairs outside but depending on where the sun is most of them are too hot to sit outside. There's a building down the street and the wall is pockmarked with what appears to be bullet holes. I asked the Frenchman and he agreed they're probably left over from the last war w/ the Sandinistas. He said most of the places have been replastered but this one seems to have been missed. I'll make a point of getting a picture of it.
That's about our day. We paid for another 4 nights so we'll be here until at least the 26th which I think is Tues. Hopefullly tomorrow afternoon when it's too hot to do anything else I can get the blog and facebook updated.
LINK OF THE DAY http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29097&l=4aada&id=680056043
Al Cotton

Costa Rica day 44 Feb. 21

We ate breakfast around 7 a.m. at the Guanacaste Hotel where we boarded the Central bus to Nicaragua. About 2 hours later we arrived at the border and traffic was lined up for a long way and that was just to get out of the country. We took our visas and paperwork and walked ahead to the immigration office and got in line. About a half an hour later we had our passports stamped and reboarded the bus which took us about a mile where we again disembarked this time with our bags and went to the customs office. We were 2nd in line as we had our packs with us. After waiting for about a half an hour a customs guy showed up and he had a button to push similar to those in Mexico. Green light you vamoose and red light assume the position. Jo and I got a green light which didn't make much difference as we went back to the bus only to have to wait outside for the busdriver to bring our passports back. He'd gone off to get them stamped. He finally showed up and we were able to board again and take our packs off. Lots of beggars in the bus station.
This was a great bus compared to what we're used to. Air conditioning, music (50's rock) and reserved seating. The driver was inside a windowed compartment and the whole front of the bus was blocked off with curtains that prevented us from seeing where we were going. Then a door was closed and locked so we were captives. As we left the bus station we were told to close all the curtains. The drivers helper came through minutes later and I asked him if we could open them. He said sure. Don't know what thaat was all about but at least we could see out the side.
The scenery was very flat farmland and the highway was paved (it's the Pan American Hwy.) Off in the distance we could see some very high volcano's and Lake Nicaraguea which is the largest lake (and polluted) in Central America. The whole trip took about 5 hours but at least two of those were spent at the border. No problems just bloody slow and disorganized.
We got off the bus at the bus station in Granada. We hadn't heard back as to whether we had reservations or not so we hoofed it forever to the hotel only to be told that there was no vacancy and that theyd changed their email address and don't check the one we used. We got the address out of a 2007 book on Central America. I think he was handing us a crock but all of a sudden he remembered a room w/ air and tv for $30/night. When I told him we had wanted to stay for a week a single cheaper room became available tomorrow for $13 a night. We'll move into it tomorrow.
This place is right in the heart of Granada which is very picturesque. Lots of old buildings and churches and quite close to the water where we can catch a ferry to head up the lake in a few days. The streets are cobblestone and there are lots of horse drawn carts. buggies, hotels and bars. We went to the bank and got $100 worth of cordobas. Not sure how long that will last but it will get us going. On the way back we found a place that claims to have wireless. We'll get back to that. We then went for supper across from the hotel at a place with an open window facing the street. We each had a cheeseburg and several beers for $13.00 or 2800 cordobas. These burgers were huge and mine came with jalepino peppers. I was going to order a double as we hadn't eaten since breakfast until I saw that a double was a pound of meat! The single was a half a pound and was very good even if it was dog meat. It also came with cole slaw and home made potato chips.
Lots of homeless and very poor people but the town is relatively clean compared to what we viewed on the way here from the bus. I'm sure we will be able to spend several days here. Great place to take pictures.
We checked out the internet place after supper but couldn't get the mac to work. It didn't even show a signal although the kid running the place had internet access with his blackberry. That was our day. Good to be off with the packs and the shoes. Tomorrow we'll scout around. It's too bad it so hard to get pics from a moving bus as we saw lots of scenery plus a huge truck full of bananas with the guys sitting on top of the load going along for the ride. The temp here is in the high 80's and the country is very dry although the humidity is quite high. Nice breeze off the lake which by the way is home to the worlds only fresh/saltwater sharks. We won't be swimming though as it's supposed to be very polluted.
Last night I took a picture of the full moon from our balcony but didn't find out until today that shortly after I took the picture there was an eclipse. Jo's fast asleep already and it's 7:30. That's what backpacking does to you. I sweat off another few pounds walking here. Should have taken a cab but didn't realize how far it was. Good exercise anyway.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29095&l=249bb&id=680056043

Costa Rica day 43 Feb. 20

We got up bright and early and had breakfast at 6:30. The bus from the game reserve was supposed to make it's return trip to town at 7 a.m. so we headed down to the road to flag it down at 6:50. It came by 30 seconds after we got there and that was our ride into Monteverde. We got in town and pulled up right beside the bus we needed to catch to Canas so we pulled out right away. It took 2 hours exactly for the 42 km. busride which will give you some idea of the speed and the road. These bus drivers are the delivery boys, mailmen etc. They stop anywhere and for any reason. Our bus was even packing a washing machine, tv., and all of some guys earthly possessions. We also nearly acquired a biker who came around one of the hairpins on the wrong side. The bus was an old bluebird school bus and was apparently still using the originally brake. I say brake because it seemed it only had one judging by the grinding and wailing as we came down the hills. He picked up parcels from locals along the way along with mail as they flagged him down along the road. He'd then stop a few miles down the road, honk the horn and when someone came out he'd hand over the parcel. The front of the bus around the driver seemed to be where everyone got caught up on the news along w/ the driver. He'd look at them while he was talking and gesture with both hands while the ruts took over the steering of the bus. A novel concept to say the least. Sort of like auto pilot.
We arrived in Canas at 10:15 and it was followed almost immediately by the bus to Liberia which took about an hour to an hour and a half over paved roads. (The Pan American Hwy.) We also passed huge wind turbines and the hydroelectric facility created by the Arenal Dam. Between the two of them they probably account for most of the electricity in Costa Rica.
The bus station in Liberia is a grungy place and if you need to use the banyo my suggestion is to go in your pants. I didn't go but Jo did and I thought she was going to lose her lunch when she came out. We then tried to call the Hotel Liberia which the book said was a great place but there was no answer. Well here we are at the "great place" It's not really that bad but we had to book our bus tickets today or miss the early bus so we had to backtrack 6 blocks to the Hotel Guanacaste to buy the tickets. Had we known we'd have stayed there as it seemed like a nice place. We're having our laundry done right now for 1,000 colognes per kilo. Wow clean clothes! On the way back from buying our bus tickets for tomorrow we came across a bunch of cell phones, adaptors etc. in the grass beside the sidewalk. Probably somebody got ripped off and looked like a vendor as there were a bunch of them. We let them lie and proceeded on to a dept. store that wasn't for tourists but for the Ticos. I desparately needed a shirt and we found them for $4.00 cndn so I bought two only because they were made by American Collection and had AC monogrammed on the pocket. Now that's classy eh?
We stopped at two internets but no wireless so we rented a pc to check our mail. Not much going on except Gerry is now retired officially and out of the real estate racket. Paul and Dana are going to take over the housesitting duties for the next month (that's all the time we've got left down here) as Doug is heading out of town for a few weeks.
Tomorrow at 8:30 we pull out of here by bus and head to Granada in Nicaragua. It's half the price up there and we'd like to be able to meet up with Jo's sister and brother in law along with Jim and Patty in late March just before we go. If we stay up there we may be able to afford to hang out until then. The hotels in C.R. are costing more than we figured. Some of them have been isolated so your obligated to eat there (at their prices) or go hungry. That accounts for the two last nights candlelight dinners although they were very good. Liberia is a pretty good size so eating tonight shouldn't be a big deal. The bus to Nicaragua will take us right across the border which should help jump the border hoops. We'll then have to change some money into cordobas. Granada is supposed to be the jewel of Nic. and is home to a lot of historic bldgs and pretty scenery. (some of the places we've stayed in also seem pretty historic at least as to when they were last cleaned).
It was very cool last night and this morning due to the dampness in the cloud forest. Within an hour of leaving though we could feel it warm up and we're again in the 80's with a nice breeze. Scrap the socks again and on with the thongs (my feet I mean).
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29094&l=1c8e6&id=680056043

Costa Rica day 42 Feb.19

Our room here at Monteverde is excellent and we had a good nights sleep after a long day yesterday. We had our breakfast around 7:30 and started walking to the park entrance at 8:00 a.m. It was pretty muddy but the temperature although colder wasn't really that bad. We reached the entrance at 8:30 and were told the park was currently at capacity and we may have to wait for two hours. To kill some time we went to the humming birds exhibit/souvenir shop. Lots of humming birds at the feeding stations and got some good shots. We then went back to watch a video presentation of the park but I was a little disappointed in it. It was more of a pitch to get donations for the park.
We returned to the entrance at 10:00 and were good to go. We started up the trail and into the mist. It was time to dig out our poncho's. It wasn't raining but more of a drizzle with high winds. It was a pretty muddy walk for the first hour as was the half hour walk to the park. We reached the turnaround point after an hour and started back on a different trail which was much easier going and downhill for the most part.
Beautiful lush greenery but too late to see any wildlife which call it a day by 9 a.m. We got back to the cafeteria at the park entrance about 12:30 and grabbed a quick bite and then struck out on a different one hour hike. It also was an easy walk and we got into a small waterfall before turning around to come back. About halfway back there was a small group of people with a guide who motioned to us to come but to keep quiet. There in the tree above our heads was a quetzal. This is a beautiful and very rare bird that everyone who comes here hopes to catch a glimpse of. We not only saw it but were able to get pictures of it! Another stroke of luck! The guide asked us to send him our pictures as he was as excited as we were.
We got back to the park entrance at five to 2 just as the bus was getting ready to leave although the time schedule said it left at 3 and we were going to walk back. As it was we'd walked for six hours so we took the bus which dropped us off right at the driveway to our B&B. I showed the pics of the quetzal to the owners and they told us how lucky we were.
Now we're going across the street to a restaurant for supper and planning tomorrow. Looks like we can catch the bus to Canas right out in front. We'll have to change busses in Tilaran but that's ok. We were going to go farther but we ate at the Canas hotel while visiting the Palo Verde river trip and it was excellent so we'll stay there tomorrow night and then head off to Liberia or North from there towards Nicaragua with maybe an overnight in between. It will be warmer and dryer than up here and we're looking forward to that and being able to do some laundry. .
Just got back from supper across the road. Pretty classy place (right up to my standards) and it's the second night in a row for a candlelight supper. Got some sunset pictures from their deck and tried to make reservations in Canas but they were booked so we may continue on to Liberia and stay there for the night. The bus passes through here pretty early so we need to get breakfast done before 7 a.m.

Another lucky day with some beautiful pictures of the cloud forest.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29089&l=c7cbe&id=680056043
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29088&l=4a4ee&id=680056043

Costa Rica day 41 Feb. 18

Well last night we watched the volcano from our patio after a nice pasta supper by candlelight in the dining room with a view of the volcano. Not much was going on so we turned in round 10 p.m. and got up about 2:30 a.m. and went to the observation deck at the end of our bldg. The huge boulders we'd been watching were now visible as fireballs racing to the bottom of the mountain. They bounce for hundreds of feet and when they land they break up slightly amidst a fireworks of sparks and then continue their journey to the bottom. It's very hard to get pics or vids but I did manage a few although they're not very good. We watched them for about an hour and then turned in again.
Breakfast was included in our lodging so we got to the dining room about 7:30 and what a feast it was. A buffet with pancakes, sausages, eggs, cheese croissants, orange juice, blackberry juice, lots of fresh fruit, mango juice, and coffee. A great way to start off the day. There was a free tour at 8:30 which we joined in on. It followed the same route we took by ourselves yesterday but the information was our reason for going. There's a guy who lives in a house on the property who made a deal with the owners years ago that he can stay until he dies and then his house and property will revert back to the lodge. The lodge began as a small farm and then in 1968 the Smithsonian Institute used the area and grounds to monitor the volcano which had erupted that year for the first time in over 400,000 years. There are now a total of 4 craters, labeled A,B.C,and D, The last big eruption was last Sept. 18th.
The first year the volcano erupted over 80 people lost their lives and the nearby farms were lost under the debris. The govt. paid the farmers and they moved farther back and began farming again. Years later it was decided to build a dam near the village so the village was moved to a new location and the water now covers the original site. During the dry season the lake lowers and some of the village is visible on the surface.
The portion of the tour we took was quite interesting. We learned that one of the unique trees we saw yesterday is eucalyptus which was imported to be used as telephone poles. The other trees we noticed were pine trees. Neither of these are indigenous to this area and the birds and animals avoid them other than the birds that build the hanging nests. There are two colonies of these birds in the vicinity and each colony is headed by one male and 20 or so females. They build many of the hanging nests in the tops of the eucalyptus but some are decoys to protect the legitimate nests. The main predators are the toucans and the fer de lance snakes which abound in this area. They are extremely poisonous.
There is a small display of the venomous snakes of the area near the entrance to the dining room. There must be over 20 poisonous species around here. We also saw a few more varieties of birds this morning. After a lunch of cheeseburgers and heineken we boarded the "jeep" to the boat. By going by "jeep/boat/jeep" we saved about 6 hours of bussing. The boat took us the length of Arenal lake where we boarded another van to take us to Monteverde. This van had 9 people in it plus all the luggage! It was uphill all the way on roads that make our logging roads look like super highways. Very steep hills and extremely winding. It was like an oven in there and the driver kept stopping, getting out and checking the front tire. We finally made it to a place with a compressor so he filled it up and away we went.
By this time we were in a thunderstorm and the windows were all fogged up which made the trip even more interesting. He dropped everyone off at their respective lodgings and then took us and the van to a gas station where he changed the tires.
Our place is quite a way out of town on a rocky gravel/mud road but quite close to the entrance to the park and hiking trails. Unfortunately although the rain has stopped the trails will probably be too muddy for hiking. No problem we can call a cab to get to town and see what's going on there. The scenery between here and Lake Arenal is unbelievably beautiful with the cleared areas devoted to very green hilly grasslands dotted with cows. Beyond that are rainforests. There are also coffee plantations here so I'm hoping to get some beans to grow.
Gerry I haven't forgotten your pepper seeds so be patient. That's about it for today.
Al & Jo
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29085&l=be6ff&id=680056043

Al Cotton

Costa Rica day 40 Feb. 17

An incredible day!
I got up and went to get some things I'd left on the clothesline last night to dry. Some desperate bugger stole my shirt! Now that's something, to steal a guys shirt right off his back. He must be worse off than me for sure. He was a gentleman though as he left my gaunch and a pair of socks. He also took a ladies things that was staying there. I guess a present for his wife.
We ate and went to the internet for a couple of hours and then took a cab to the Arenal Observatory Lodge where we're booked in for one night. We arrived here at noon but check in wasn't until 3 so we checked our bags and went for a walk along one of the hiking trails. The gardens here are beautiful and it's like going to the botanical gardens all over again. We then followed a path past the swimmng pool and hot tub until we came to a sign that read falls. We hiked through the woods amongst ferns, unusual trees, and mosses. It was an easy hike compared to some we've been on, all except another suspension bridge. This one at least had wire sides on it so I wouldn't slide through and fall the 60' to my demise. Why do all these things bounce so much when I took such great pains to not shake it? Maybe it was my knees knocking. Anyway I survived the crossing even though It felt like Blondin crossing Niagra Falls on a tightrope.
The falls were great and on the way back we saw a toucan which was much different that the one we saw on the East Coast. When we got back to the lodge it was only 2 pm so we sat on the observation deck and had a beer and watched the volcano which was right in front of us as huge boulders came tumbling down the slope. You could see the smoke when they first appeared over the top of the crater. They continued to smoke and pick up speed as they tumbled down until when they reached top speed (I figured about 100 mph) they began to bounce. You could tell how far they were bouncing because of the smoke every time they landed. They must have been covering over 100 yards between landings. It was incredible to sit in a comfortable chair, sipping a beer and watching this display which continued one right after another.
We had supper at 6 pm and then went into the reception area where they had a dvd going of a day last Sept. when the volcano really got going. We bought a copy as it's very impressive and then got the receptionist to book as a "jeep/boat/jeep" ride to Monteverde in the cloud forest where we have a place booked for tomorrow night. We'll stay one night there while we look for a cheaper place. This place is $108/night incl. taxes and a free breakfast and a short hike in the morning. It's the best value we've had since arriving here. What an incredible place! I'd recommend this to anyone! We've got a huge room, two queen size beds, extra pillows, extra towels, a beautiful bathroom and a balcony that we can sit on and watch the volcano. It began raining shortly after we got back to our room so we'll get up before the sun comes up and try and get some pictures. We have seen the same boulders coming down only now they're balls of fire and they shower sparks whenever they hit the ground. They're too far away to film and that's why we bought the video.
Just off the observation deck when we were having a beer they put out fruit for the birds. And birds there were! Most we had never seen before and I got some great shots (check out facebook). They also had some coatamundie's come for fruit. At one point there were 22 of them! We can see the volcano from the bed so we'll be sleeping with one eye open tonight. We don't leave here until 2:15 tomorrow so we have lots of time for another hike.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29078&l=597f7&id=680056043
Al Cotton
al.cotton@shaw.ca

Costa Rica day 39 Feb. 16

We had breakfast at the den of thieves and then packed up and went to the internet place. A beautiful sunny morning and while I downloaded pictures to facebook Jo went out and got some really nice pictures of the volcano and the church. We spent the afternoon checking out the souvenir shops and bought a new road map as the other one was turning into dust. Scotch tape was no longer working.
While walking around we bumped into Bris who was the girl from Kelowna who was robbed the other night. She and her two buddies are leaving this afternoon for Monteverde. She's hoping to meet up with her father shortly and although he was also robbed up in Nicaragua he lost what she still has and vice versa so they should be ok once they hook up. She was in much better spirits after I told her about Lance getting his journal back after about 15 years. I'm sure she'll make out ok.
Back to the internet after our supper of pork chops, rice, beans, and salad. Got a few more pics downloaded while Jo sat nearby working on her journal.
Heard the church bells at 6:30 & thought we better get moving to make the lightning strike a little less accurate. Made it back to our new digs which aren't bad and it has a good lock on the door, along w/ tv, a/c and a fan.
Tomorrow we're off to a place where we'll have a view (weather permitting) of the lava and fireworks which are on the other side of the volcano from here. It's a little pricey but it's only for one night and then we'll head to the cloud forests of Monteverde where we'll probably need our rain gear again but the wildlife is supposed to be excellent. (I'm talking about the nature's kind of wildlife).
It was nice to have a day off and get a little caught up on the computer. We may be offline for another stint depending on the services next week. I'd like to thank those who are following our trip. Some were concerned when there were no blogs for so long and thought maybe we'd been shot, eaten,fallen into a pothole, open sewer or worse.
I'm going to try and mark our path on this new map so I can post it. We've covered a lot of ground so far and the trips only half over.
LINK OF THE DAY
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29077&l=f5ff6&id=680056043

Al Cotton